PolentOne - the taste of Bergamo in a bowl

Journalist Jeremy Culley urges visitors not to miss a wonderful chance to enjoy a Bergamo speciality as soon as they arrive in the Città Alta

PolentOne's stall is tucked away under
an archway opposite the funicular station

Uninspiring and dingy takeaways often greet you when you arrive in a town or city by train but that is not the case when you emerge from the funicular station into Bergamo’s wonderful Città Alta.

Here, the first food outlet you see is an unassuming stall built under an archway leading from the Piazza Mercato delle Scarpe up some steps to the Piazzetta Luigi Angelini, directly opposite the entrance to the station.

PolentOne provides an immediate introduction to cucina bergamasca  and is about as far a cry from the ubiquitous kebab shop as is possible to imagine. 

As the name suggests, PolentOne’s menu is dominated by polenta, with its versions heralded as the best in the city. Aside from a few panini filled with local meats and cheeses, almost all dishes feature the local cornmeal and buckwheat staple. 

The owners clearly have a sense of humour, too. Polentone - meaning polenta-eater - is a term some southern Italians use to describe northerners, and not necessarily in a complimentary way!

PolentOne's dishes follow a simple format - a choice of bramata (plain) or taragna (made with cheese) polenta topped with a range of delicious local specialities.

After a morning’s sight-seeing in the Città Alta, PolentOne is the ideal spot to rest your feet for a quick, tasty and good-value lunch. 

My wife and I both opted for the delicious polenta taranga, usually made with Branzi or other Alpine cheeses. I picked the salamella (local salsiccia) as a topping and my wife, the ragù cinghiale (wild boar sauce), each costing just seven euros.

Polenta served with ragù cinghiale 
(top) and the local salamella sausage

For very little extra you can add a bottle of Peroni and a glass of white wine before pulling up a pew at one of the tables to wait for your counter to buzz signifying your food is ready.

The aromas emanating from the kitchen make the wait seem long but in reality it is only five minutes or so. You are presented with steaming hot bowls of polenta taragna. The grilled salsiccia was worthy of a restaurant, while the ragù tasted like it had been simmering for hours despite being served in the time it took to have two sips of wine.

It is a perfect warming lunch - a taste of Bergamo in a bowl for the cost of a drink at a bar. 

The next time you arrive in the Città Alta by funicular do not make the mistake of writing off PolentOne as ‘just another station takeaway’. To do so would be a great disservice to a food outlet serving what must be the best polenta in Bergamo.

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Trattoria Tre Torri Bergamo

Enjoy dining out in a truly medieval atmosphere

Trattoria Tre Torri is housed inside
a medieval tower

Have you ever wondered what it must have been like to live in a medieval tower in Bergamo’s Città Alta?

Well, you can easily sample the medieval atmosphere for just a couple of hours by having lunch or dinner at Trattoria Tre Torri in Piazza Mercato del Fieno in the Città Alta. The square is just off Via Gombito to the right, almost opposite the enormous Torre Gombito. It was once the site of the Città Alta’s hay market and the piazza is still bordered by three medieval tower houses, which have been cut down from their former heights but are still the original structures.

One of the houses, which used to be owned by Bergamo’s rich and powerful Suardi family, has a pretty little balcony under a double arched mullioned window.

Another tower on the square, opposite the three adjoining towers, houses the Trattoria Tre Torri, which serves good quality local food at reasonable prices. There are some tables for two but you can also sit at large wooden tables with benches if you are a larger party.

The original stone has been left exposed on the inside walls. One night when I went there for dinner with my family it was raining heavily outside and we were amused to notice the rain running down the walls inside, but we still felt very warm and cosy and enjoyed the meal.

The three adjoining towers on the square
were once much taller

The staff are very friendly and the menu has many traditional Bergamo dishes to try, such as casoncelli alla bergamasca - a kind of ravioli - stinco al forno - pork shank - and dishes with the local type of polenta. They stock local Bergamo wines and also serve a good house wine.

There is all the atmosphere you would expect to experience when dining in a genuine medieval tower and there are also tables outside under an awning for dining during the summer. 

Piazza Mercato del Fieno is where the Città Alta’s post office is located and it also has some shops and bars. It is a good place to stand to take a photograph of the Gombito tower, which looms high above Via Gombito. The square is on higher ground and is sufficiently far away to enable you to capture a shot that includes the top of the tower.

Trattoria Tre Torri is located at Piazzo Mercato del Fieno 7.

The original medieval brickwork is a feature of Trattoria Tre Torri's cosy interior

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Christmas in Bergamo

Natale adds extra sparkle to Lombardy’s hidden gem

The beautiful city of Bergamo has now become even more magical, adorned with thousands of twinkling lights, colourfully decorated Christmas trees and lovingly recreated nativity scenes, known in Italian as presepi.

Christmas tree lights up a corner of Piazza Vecchia

On Christmas Eve, la Vigilia di Natale, it was warm and sunny with a clear blue sky while people completed their Christmas shopping, with most of the shops open for business, even though it was a Sunday.

Hundreds of people dressed as Santa Claus - Babbo Natale to Italians - competed in a fun run for charity, Babbo Running, handily finishing on Via Sentierone in the Città Bassa, so they could go into the bars still in costume for a refreshing drink afterwards, adding to the festive atmosphere.

Babbo Running finishes in Bergamo's lower town

The night before Christmas, the buses and the funicular railway were running until late, making it possible to go up to the Città Alta to dine out.

Restaurants were open on both Christmas Eve and on Christmas Day, Natale, but were all filled to capacity, so it is well worth booking in advance, by either email or telephone, to make sure you get a table at your favourite.

There were Christmas concerts in many of the churches and more informal festive entertainment put on in some of the bars.

The talented Maysingers perform in the Tucans
 Pub in Via Donizetti

Some shops and bars were open on Christmas Day in the morning but there was no public transport running. Thankfully the day dawned bright and clear, with warm sunshine, making the walk up to the Città Alta enjoyable.

Many shops and businesses in the city had followed the custom of leaving a seat outside for Santa, adding to the festive atmosphere.

The shops were all filled with seasonal goodies, such as the traditional Panettone and Pan d’Oro and also torrone, a type of nougat made in Cremona, which is a traditional gift to take when visiting friends on Christmas morning. Negozio Sperlari in Via Solferino, in nearby Cremona, has become famous for making torrone. The concoction of almonds, honey and egg whites was created in the city to mark the marriage of Bianca Maria Visconti to Francesco Sforza in 1441, when Cremona was given to the bride as part of her dowry.

In one supermarket in Bergamo’s Città Bassa, a special offer enabled customers to buy a bottle of Aperol, a bottle of Prosecco and a very large bag of crisps, patatine, for just 10 euros,the makings of a very merry Christmas!

Supermarket special offer

Editor’s note: ‘Particular praise should go to the restaurant Il Sole in Via Colleoni just off Piazza Vecchia in the Città Alta. The restaurant was full for Christmas lunch and offered a very good à la carte menu. The courses were served promptly and all the dishes we ordered were hot and delicious. The staff were cheerful and attentive. It was a lovely convivial atmosphere and I would recommend the restaurant to anyone wishing to enjoy a good Christmas lunch in Bergamo’s Città Alta next year.’

For more information visit www.ilsolebergamo.com

Buon Natale e Buon Anno from Best of Bergamo !

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Trattoria Caprese Bergamo

Neapolitan specialities in a northern Italian city

The colourful pizza oven at Trattoria Caprese

Enjoy a taste of southern Italy in the heart of Bergamo’s Citta Bassa at Trattoria Caprese.

The restaurant’s extensive menu offers authentic dishes from Naples, Capri and Sorrento served up in brightly decorated surroundings.

Trattoria Caprese also has branches in Naples, Porto Cervo, Monza and Brescia .

The Bergamo restaurant is in Via Daniele Piccinini, which is a turning off Rotonda dei Mille (the junction with the statue of Garibaldi). It is open seven days a week serving from 12.00 to 15.30 and from 19.00 to 00.30, when last orders are taken.

Trattoria Caprese prides itself on its Neapolitan atmosphere and friendly waiters, who aim to make the customers feel at home.

Among the antipasti selection are frittura napoletana (a deep fried selection) and mozzarella in carrozza (a deep fried sandwich of mozzarella and anchovies.)

A distinctive feature of the restaurant is the colourful, tiled pizza oven and there is a comprehensive pizza and calzone list to choose from.

Among the primi piatti are gnocchi alla sorrentina (gnocchi with cheese and tomatoes) and risotto alla pescatora (seafood risotto). For secondi there is fresh fish, frittura del golfo (mixed fried fish), scaloppina (a veal escalope served with either lemon, white wine or mushrooms), grilled meat dishes and main course salads.

As well as the pleasant house wine, Trattoria Caprese offers a good selection of Campanian labels such as Falanghina, Greco and Fiano di Avellino.

Editor’s note: “On my last visit the restaurant was packed with local Bergamo people who were enjoying the authentic Neapolitan atmosphere and food. Our waiter brought us things to nibble and a portion of seafood pasta to sample along the way, as well as complimentary limoncello and meloncello at the end of the meal.”  

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Taverna Valtellinese serves tasty treats from valley north of Bergamo

Taverna Valtellinese

Sample the best food and wine from the Valtellina in a cosy restaurant in the heart of the Città Bassa in Bergamo.

Once inside the Taverna Valtellinese in Via Gerolamo Tiraboschi you feel as though you are in an alpine chalet. Although it is a large restaurant, the wooden walls and floor and the check tablecloths make the atmosphere warm and intimate.

The Taverna Valtellinese has been serving dishes made with authentic cheeses, butter, meat and wine from the Valtellina, a valley north of Bergamo, since opening in 1967.

Valtellina specialities

For antipasti there is a choice of bresaola, prosciutto and salame from the Valtellina.

Among the primi (first courses) on offer is the classic pizzoccheri di Teglio, a variation on fettucine, served with Swiss chard, boiled potatoes and Bitto and Casera cheese. There are also panzerotti, gnochetti and tortelloni dishes cooked alla valtellinese and rice dishes.

For secondi (main courses) there is a good choice of meat dishes including the local staple, stufatino ai funghi e polenta (meat with mushrooms and polenta), or culaccio di manzo al Sassella (beef braised in red wine from Sassella), spiedini alla griglia (a selection of meat grilled on a spit) or rognoncino in terrina con funghi (kidneys cooked with mushrooms). There are also some vegetarian and fish options

On my recent visit to Taverna Valtellinese I found that there was a good atmosphere and the restaurant was full of local people. I was particularly impressed with the antler-shaped chandelier on the ceiling and the white wine recommended by the waiter, which was a delicious Chiavennasca.

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Perfect pizza at Trattoria Bernabò

Trattoria Bernabò

A good place for pizza in the Città Alta in Bergamo is the Trattoria Bernabò in Piazza Mascheroni.

This smart restaurant is on the corner of the square where it joins the top of Via Colleoni and is a handy place to stop for either lunch or dinner.

The restaurant offers a list of 18 different pizze with prices starting from €6.50.

We called in towards the end of the lunch period and just ordered pizza as we did not want a big meal, but we were made very welcome and were served with complimentary antipasti while our excellent pizze were cooked to order.

We ate in style in the panelled dining room and ordered a bottle of Valcalepio Bianco from the extensive wine list.

On a return visit we will definitely try the menu alla carta, which offers some unusual antipasti, primi piatti, fish and meat dishes as well as Bergamo specialities.

To look at the menu or for more information visit www.ristorantebernabo.it

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Typical Bergamo cooking at La Colombina

La Colombina

A good place to try traditional Bergamo dishes is the Antica Trattoria La Colombina in Borgo Canale just outside the walls of the Città Alta (upper town).

La Colombina is next door to the birthplace of composer Gaetano Donizetti, who wrote some of the greatest lyrical operas of all time. He was born on 29 November, 1797 in the basement of number 14 Borgo Canale. He wrote about his birthplace: “I was born underground in Borgo Canale. One descended the stairs to the basement, where no ray of sunlight had ever been seen. And like an owl I flew forth…”

The house is open to the public at weekends only. Check the opening times with the Tourist Office in Via Gombito.

La Colombina occupies the ground floor of a very similar house at number 12 Borgo Canale. The restaurant is in the main salone, but there is also a terrace for dining outside in the summer with beautiful views over the hills and surrounding countryside.

The restaurant is decorated in traditional style and has an ornate ceiling and an original tiled floor.

Among the antipasti served are typical Bergamo salami, ham and artichokes and sfogliata -- a type of pastry tart -- with zucchini and cheese with a tomato sauce.

Primi piatti (first courses) include casoncelli alla bergamasca, risotto with asparagus and gnocchi with verdure and branzi cheese.

Among the main courses on offer are polenta taragna with funghi porcini, brasato (braised beef) and stinco al forno (braised pork shank) both served with polenta. When I tried out the restaurant last month (March 2011) I found that the food was well cooked and the Valcalepio wine was reasonably priced and very good.

La Colombina's stinco al forno

My husband and I were offered complimentary blueberry grappa and the restaurant's own amaro colombina as digestivi 

(liqueurs) at the end of the meal.

La Colombina is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. For more information visit www.trattorialacolombina.it.

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Lunch by the lake at Sirmione

Sirmione's Rocca Scaligera

A good day out from Bergamo in the run up to Christmas would be a trip to Sirmione, a resort on Lake Garda where there are plenty of shopping opportunities, ranging from market stalls to high class fashion boutiques.
Sirmione lies in a dramatic setting on a narrow, four kilometre peninsula reaching out into the lake. It has a medieval centre full of interesting things to see and is well served by bars and restaurants
You could treat yourself to lunch at the elegant Ristorante Risorgimento in Piazza Carducci in the heart of the historic centre.
The restaurant was established in Sirmione’s salottino (little drawing room) near the lake more than 100 years ago and continues to offer good hospitality, food and wine.
Ristorante Risorgimento specialises in seafood and flambé dishes and serves bread and dolce (desserts) made on the premises.
The restaurant claims to have carefully selected each of the 700 quality labels offered on its wine list. It would be a good place to try Lugana, a light, dry white wine, and Bardolino, a soft, fruity red wine, as they are both produced by vineyards in the area.
Ristorante Risorgimento is open every day except Tuesday. Visit www.risorgimento-sirmione.com for more information.
The views of Lake Garda from Sirmione have inspired many writers over the centuries, from Roman poet Catullus, to Ezra Pound and James Joyce in the 20th century, who once met up in the resort.
Sirmione’s castle, la Rocca Scaligera, was built by a powerful family from Verona in the 13th century and Italian poet Dante is said to have once spent the night there. It is well worth a visit for the views of the lake from the battlements.
You can also look round the ruins of the Roman villa, built in the first century BC, that you will see perched on a rocky promontory. Although they are known as Le Grotte di Catullo, it is by no means certain Catullus ever lived there, although he is believed to have spent part of his life in Sirmione and singled out the resort for special praise from ‘…all peninsulas and isles, that in our lakes of silver lie…’
Opera singer Maria Callas also appreciated Sirmione, choosing to live for nine years in a secluded villa there.
To reach Sirmione from Bergamo by train, travel to Brescia and catch the Milan to Venice express, getting off at Desenzano del Garda-Sirmione station. It takes about an hour to reach Sirmione from Bergamo by car via the A4 Autostrada.

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Pescarenico trattoria specialises in seafood

When on a day trip to Lecco from Bergamo it is well worth taking the time to visit the historic fishermen’s quarter of Pescarenico.

Trattoria Vecchia Pescarenico

Pescarenico was immortalised in the classic novel I Promessi Sposi (The Betrothed) by Alessandro Manzoni. It was the setting for Padre Cristoforo’s convent in the book and it was also from Pescarenico’s shore that the character Lucia set off in a boat to escape the clutches of the evil Don Rodrigo.
The village grew from a cluster of fishermen’s homes at the side of Lago di Lecco (Lake Lecco) and an inn became established there in the 19th century.
Now named Trattoria Vecchia Pescarenico, the inn is located at number eight Via Pescarenico, a small street leading down to the side of the lake. Today it is an excellent restaurant specialising in seafood.
It is advisable to book in advance, but we were lucky enough to get a table for lunch in one of the two small rooms when we came across the restaurant unexpectedly during a recent visit.
There was a good range of seafood antipasti, including unusual dishes such as capesante gratinate (baked scallops served with a pea puree) and gamberi in salsa di ceci (prawns in a chickpea sauce).
Among the many pasta dishes were the more unusual tagliatelle alla polpa di granchio (tagliatelle with a crab meat sauce) and gnocchetti alla pescatrice con olive (small gnocchi with a seafood and olive sauce).
The main dishes included rombo al cartoccio con pomodori primavera (baked turbot with spring tomatoes) and grigliata di mare (an impressive selection of mixed grilled seafood) available only for a minimum of two people.
There was a good selection of wines from the region, including reasonably priced Lugana and Prosecco, as well as a comprehensive list of wines from other parts of Italy .
We had a very good meal, the service was friendly and the owners took the time to talk to us about the area.
For more information, visit http://www.vecchiapescarenico.it/ or telephone 0341 368330.

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Sweeping views from San Vigilio restaurant

Stunning views from San Vigilio

If you would like to dine in style while enjoying spectac- ular views, try the Bar Pizzeria Ristorante San Vigilio, high above Bergamo.

From the terrace of the restaurant in Via San Vigilio there are sweeping views over Parco dei Colli (park of the hills).

Open every day, the San Vigilio offers a comprehensive menu with pizza, pasta, fish and meat dishes and salads.

There is also a good wine list that includes plenty of wines from Lombardia.

To reach San Vigilio, take the funicular (cable car) from Largo di Porta Sant'Alessandro, close to where the bus from Città Bassa to Città Alta terminates at Largo Colle Aperto. When you disembark at the funicular station at San Vigilio, turn left and you will find the restaurant a few metres away at the beginning of Via San Vigilio.
The map below shows San Vigilio in relation to Città Alta, which is the area in the map around the university buildings.

Inside it is bright, modern and spacious with some pieces of antique furniture and some unusual features such as a gleaming red and chrome ham slicer, complete with a whole prosciutto crudo (cured ham), in pride of place in front of the bar.

I enjoyed a delicious pizza napoli washed down with a good bottle of Valcalepio bianco when I visited San Vigilio in May 2010.

For more information about the restaurant visit www.ristorantepizzeriasanvigilio.it or telephone 035 253188.

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Pizzeria Capri provides plenty of choice

Whatever your taste in pizza toppings, the Pizzeria Capri Trattoria in Bergamo’s Città Bassa (lower town) probably has it on the menu.

There are more than 250 types of pizza listed from the different regions of Italy, using a variety of ingredients. Bergamo has a page of its own featuring locally produced cheeses.

The restaurant even offers pizze made from wholewheat flour and a dessert pizza topped with chocolate.

I tried a pizza napoletana when I went there for lunch a few weeks ago and I thought the base of the pizza was excellent and the topping tasted authentic.

Pizzeria Capri Trattoria has been owned by the Fratelli Nasti (Nasti brothers) for more than 40 years and is in a handy location in Via Zambonate, a short walk from Porta Nuova in the centre.

The restaurant has a beamed ceiling with brick archways and is fitted out in the Italian colours with red tablecloths, white covers and green painted chairs.

There are pasta, meat and fish dishes on the menu and tempting displays of antipasti and dolce (desserts).

A wide range of bottled beers and wines are listed, but you can also order draught beer and Prosecco served by the jug.

The Pizzeria Capri Trattoria is closed on Mondays but on other days it is open from 12 till 3pm for lunch and from 6.30pm to midnight for dinner.

To book telephone 035 247911or do it on line at http://www.danasti.it/

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It’s paradise for polenta lovers at Da Ornella

To try traditional Bergamo dishes in the heart of the Città Alta (upper town) go to Trattoria Da Ornella.

Conveniently located in Via Gombito, which links the funicular station with the Piazza Vecchia, the square at the heart of the Citta Alta, the restaurant advertises that Polenta Taragna is their speciality. 

You can try Da Ornella’s version of Polenta Taragna on its own, or served with a mixture of meats.

Although the restaurant looks small from the outside, it is spacious inside with plenty of tables. The décor is simple with check table cloths, plain walls and high vaulted ceilings. There is also a garden for outside dining in good weather.

On the menu there is a selection of antipasti, pasta dishes, polenta and meat dishes.

For my main course I tried stinco da forno with polenta, a piece of pork shin braised in wine with vegetables, which was delicious.

Da Ornella offers a good selection of wines at reasonable prices and the staff are friendly and provide good service.

The restaurant is closed on Thursdays and booking is recommended. Trattoria Da Ornella is at Via Gombito 15 (Telephone 035 232736).



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Eating out in Crema

Visitors enjoying a day out in the historic city of Crema will find that there is no shortage of good bars and places to eat. 
Just 40 kilometres to the south of Bergamo, the city of Crema has some fine architecture and it is well worth making the journey by train or road to spend a day there.
In the centre of the city, near a beautiful church, the ornate 18th century Santa Trinità (pictured left), you will find the Speranza Ristorante and Pizzeria is a good place to stop for a meal.
Offering specialities from Amalfi as well as traditional Lombardian cuisine, the Speranza (pictured below) is smart and comfortable and the dishes on the menu are reasonably priced.
The pizza I enjoyed during my visit to the restaurant in February this year was as authentic as any I have tasted when in the south of Italy,
The Speranza says on its business card that it is putting “45 years of experience at the service of the customer” and I certainly found the staff to be friendly and efficient. 
Speranza is in Via Crocefissa di Rosa off Via XX Settembre and is open every day except Monday. To book in advance telephone 0373 84702.

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Ristorante Speranza in Crema

Dining out in the Città Bassa

If you want to find somewhere to eat in the Città Bassa (lower town) there are plenty of good restaurants.
Whether you are looking for somewhere to have a pizza or the chance to sample some traditional Bergamo dishes, there is a wide choice within easy reach of Porta Nuova in the heart of the Città Bassa.
A long-standing, authentic restaurant serving Lombardian specialities is La Valtellinese Taverna in Via Tiraboschi.
Established in 1967, La Valtellinese serves traditional food to the people of Bergamo and visitors to the city. It is closed on Mondays. Telephone 035 243 331 to book a table.
In nearby Via San Bernardino is the Del Gallo trattoria and pizzeria, which serves a comprehensive menu in an intimate atmosphere. There are some Sicilian specialities and the fresh fish is particularly good.  It is open every evening. Telephone 035 330344 to book a table.
There is a friendly pizzeria in Via Zambonate. Capri Da Nasti pizzeria and trattoria is closed on Mondays. Telephone 035 247 911 to book a table.
And La Ciotola in Viale Papa Giovanni XXlll serves visitors and local people every day except Wednesdays and Thursday lunch times. Telephone 035 238 33 4 to book.

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Restaurant looking out over Lago Iseo

The elegant lakeside town of Sarnico, which makes a nice day trip from Bergamo, has a number of places to eat and for good food at modest prices the Ristorante Pizzeria Anphora is worth a visit.
The restaurant is situated in the heart of the town in Piazza XX Settembre, which is on the edge of the lake (pictured above).
Steps lead up from the square to the restaurant, which has tables outside in the summer. Inside, it is smart and modern and is furnished with some antique pieces and bric-a-brac.
Ristorante Pizzeria Anphora specialises in fish and seafood dishes but also offers some traditional Lombardian recipes. It is closed on Mondays.
To book a table or check the opening hours, telephone 035 910828.

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Eating out in the Città Alta

Visitors to Bergamo who want to enjoy good food have plenty of choice in the Città Alta where many
prestigious restaurants have been recommended in guides covering the whole of Italy. 
In a prime location in the Piazza Vecchia (above) is the Taverna Colleoni dell’Angelo, on the right-hand side of the square as pictured, which offers a 'gourmet meat menu' and a 'gourmet fish menu'. For more information,visit http://www.colleonidellangelo.com/. To book a table telephone 035 232596.
L’Osteria di Via Solata is a short walk from the Piazza Mercato delle Scarpe, where the funicular from the Città Bassa arrives. The restaurant prides itself on offering the best wines. It is closed on Sunday evenings and every Tuesday.
From La Marianna in Largo Colle Aperto there are great views of the Città Bassa. The restaurant dates back to 1953 and has a terrace as well as indoor tables. To book telephone 035 247 997.
In a corner of the Piazza Vecchia, at the start of the Via Bartolomeo Colleoni, is Il Sole. Although it looks small from the outside, there are plenty of tables in two large rooms, furnished in traditional style with oil paintings and antique cookery implements on display. There is also a large garden for sunny lunches and dining outside on warm evenings.
To book a table, telephone 035 218 238. The restaurant is closed on Thursdays. Il Sole is also one of the few hotels in the Città Alta, with ten rooms available for booking. Visit http://www.ilsolebergamo.com/ for more details. 

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